BUMPER MUSIC- "A Discussion on Percussion" (Area 47)
ANNOUNCER- Mike Cunliffe
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DESCRIPTION
Percussion instruments are known to take a beating. Still, it's important to keep them safe, clean and properly maintained. In this episode, we will review the instruments of the percussion family and share some tips we found to keep them sounding and looking their best!
KEYWORDS
IDIOPHONE-Any instrument that produces a sound by it's body vibrating. The contact is made directly with the instrument with no strings or membranes attached.
METALLOPHONE- Are more or less a subcategory of the idiophones. Typically these are pitched instruments with metal bars that are struck by a stick or mallet.
CHORDOPHONE- Any instrument where a stretched vibrating string produces the primary sound.
MEMBRANOPHONE- Any instrument that produces sound from a vibrating membrane, such as a drum head.
AEROPHONE- These are instruments that rely on the vibration of air, usaully within a column of wood or metal, such as the woodwinds and brass instruments.
WOODEN INSTRUMENTS
-In general wood instruments like to be cleaned regularly, polished or (conditioned in some cases) and kept in treated wood friendly environments. Temperature should be around 72º F (22ºC) with 44-55% humidity.
DRUM SHELLS- Most commonly, drum shells (toms, snare and kick) are made of birch, beech, maple or oak. This is the sound of your drums, especially the kick and toms. If not given proper care and maintenance these shells could crack or warp. They may be more difficult to tune and/or just not sound to their fullest potential. Regularly wipe them down with microfiber cloth. For glossy finishes consider using a little drum polish on occasion. On a budget you can get by with any non abrasive furniture polish. When replacing heads, go ahead and wipe down the bearing edges and the inside of the shell with a soft cloth. On occasion, using conditioners on the edges is recommended and some suggest paraffin wax, beeswax or even Chapstick.
-When storing drum shells, try to keep them in environments that are around 70º F and in the 40-60% range humidity (45-55% being optimal). More extreme environments can lead to warping or cracking. Use cases if you’re storing or transporting them. Don’t leave them in the car in the hot sun or the hot sun at all. That can lead the melting of glue or bubbling within the wrap.
-Similar cylindrical wood instruments like the congas, bongos, bodhran, frame drum and even the tamborine would appreciate the same cleansing and environmental courtesies as your drum shell. Most of these instruments are also membranophones.
-Woodblocks, wooden and gourd shakers, castanets, the guiro and other similar instruments don’t have a lot of moving parts. A proper wipe down on occasion should be plenty for their well being.
XYLOPHONES AND MARIMBAS- These instruments use wooden bars that are coated with a paint or finish that protects them from humidity. Still we recommend keeping them in humidity safe environments as previously discussed (44-55%). Dust gathering and oily finger prints aren’t great for the paint. So wipe them off with a soft, damp cloth. You may not need to involve a furniture polish every time. But a deep cleaning is recommended every year. Remove the individual wooden bars and place them on a soft towel. Don’t stack them as that can damage the finish.
-For a deep cleaning, get some rubber gloves and wipe off all 6 sides with a wood cleaner to remove dirt, oil and debris. Then use a fresh rag to apply your furniture polish. Once done, give them a final wipe to buff em a little. If storing them wrap them in a towel with a layer of cloth between them. While the bars are off, go ahead and wipe down the wood box and or frame with a similar process. Never use rubbing alcohol. Stay away from metallic mallets because they will be too harsh on the wood finish.
METAL INSTRUMENTS AND
METALLOPHONES
HARDWARE- For drum stands and other hardware, avoid rust by polishing them regularly with a dry cloth. Give moving parts like tension rods or wing nuts a little drop of oil and move them around a little. Also, use cases or bags and don’t store them or transport them in the same bags as your shells.
-Drum hoops and tension rods should also be polished. To assure equal tension when tuning, get all the rods finger tight and then proceed to tighten each rod like you would a hub cap (tighen one rod and then the one across the head from it, and proceed with all rods). Consider using a hoop protector on the kick drum where the pedal bites into it.
CYMBALS- Cymbals should be cleaned and polished on a regular basis. Manufacturers add a protective coating to prevent them from corroding in the warehouse. But after being played enough, this coating wares off. To clean them, simply wipe off finger prints and dust with a soft microfiber cloth. If you need extra care use some warm water and soap with a rag. Just be sure to dry it off well. A polish specific to cymbals is recommended. Household metal cleaners could be too much for thier finishes. Put a pea sized drop on the cymbal and rub it in with a radial motion along the groves. Avoid the logo for its own preservation. Remove the polish with a clean dry cloth.
VIBRAPHONES AND GLOCKENSPIELS- These instruments are cleaned similarly to the xylophone and marimba. The bars on these instruments are made of alloy coated with a silver or gold finish. It's always best to avoid moisture with metals. Clean them weekly with a light solution of soap and water and dry them off immediately. Don’t let them air dry. Stay away from metallic mallets. The resonators should be cleaned with a few blasts of canned air on occasion. Check them regularly for foreign objects that may affect the sound. In temperature beyond their comfort zone (73º) resonators may need to be moved closer to or further from the bars. These bars are held by suspension cords which should be checked for fraying on occasion.
BELLS AND CHIMES- Bells and chimes can be cleaned with a soft cloth and steer clear of chemicals. They can be stored upright in a cool dry room. For chimes keep an eye on those suspending cords for wear and tear.
MEMBRANOPHONES
DRUM HEADS- Windex or 409 (without bleach) will suffice on the clear heads. For coated heads and mesh heads, use a light soap and water solution with a cloth. In either case avoid spraying water or pouring water on the drum head. For storage, reduce the tension of the tension rods by about 1/2 of what they were. This includes the orchestral bass drum. In the case of timpani or kettle drums you do not want to ease tension for storage or transport. Wipe down the bowl and heads with a soft cloth and avoid chemicals. Pedals should be left in the “pedal down” position to hold the tension in the drum heads.
-For bongos, bodhrans and other skin based drum heads the old damp cloth should suffice. Dampness is not as important on djembes and thinner skin heads. Some recommend shea butter or hand lotions featuring lanolin (a natural oil). Get some on your hands and lightly coat the head. After a day, wipe off excess oils.
-Some drums, like the bodhran, have tunable models and non-tunable models. If yours is the latter and too loose, try dry heat like a hair dryer or a heating pad to tighten it up. To control the amount of heat put your hand in between the head and the heat source. If it is too hot for your skin, then so it it for the skin of your drum. If it’s too tight, you can apply a little moisturizer or oil to the skin. But do so prudently and sparingly because this will permanently loosen the skin.